
(Chez Gari, 370 Columbus Ave between 77th and 78th Streets)
Have you ever walked into a restaurant, sat down, looked at the menu, met the eyes of your waiter, and realized it was way too expensive for your budget, yet somehow found yourself glued to your seat by pride?
It won’t happen to you chez Gari, now that I’ve warned you. It happened to me there, though! I was sauntering down Columbus Avenue after a long walk through Central Park, feeling a bit peckish, remembered I’d seen Gari reviewed in TNY’s Tables for Two, and went in on an impulse. Once I realized I was paralyzed by indecision in my chair, I obeyed another impulse and decided to make the most of it, or the least of it, or maybe both. I pretended I only wanted a snack and ordered an appetizer, one roll, and a small hot saké (when in doubt, order hot saké, it’s always the cheapest saké in the house, since it’s a waste to heat up a fine saké).
The duck salad appetizer was actually rather bland, even though it purported to contain jalopeño. To be fair, I did get a hint of it later on, as an aftertaste. But bland as it was, it was still somehow rather pleasing, maybe because the duck was nice and tender, and because the salad portion was actually rather copious by Japanese restaurant standards. It led me to suspect it had been conceived for the rather conservative taste buds of non-sushi eaters who would inevitably be brought to Gari by their sushi-loving dates.
I ordered my one favorite personal sushi comfort-food: a salmon-skin handroll, which was light and crispy, the lightest I’d ever experienced. The chef’s special sushi selection passed through my line of vision on its way to a table (I was sitting at the sushi bar), and I noticed a very beautiful, jewel-like piece of sushi beckoning to me. I asked my waiter, who was handing me l’addition, what it’s name was, and was told something I absolutely cannot remember! But I do remember it was tuna, marinated Korean-style, and it was delicious. The chef was kind enough to make me a miniature version of it, compliments of the house.
To complete my dinner, I went home, a little lighter of wallet, slightly tipsy, and made my own cold Japanese buckwheat noodles, sprinkled with hand-roasted (my hands roasted them) sesame seeds, and shredded Nori on top. (Total value of this home-cooked side dish: probably about two dollars or less, once you divide the cost per ration of the noodles, the sesame seeds, and the Nori.)
All in all, not a bad experience for what might have turned into a night of financial chagrin. There was no discomfort in being alone at the sushi bar, though the leather seat, molded over time into two concave buttock-bowls by other people’s derrieres, was a little unnerving at first. I was there on the early side, before it got too crowded, and everyone was absolutely kindly and cordial, probably thinking I was just another Upper West Side chick on a diet. I recommend Gari for an Upper West Side, civilised experience anytime you’ve got the financial wherewithal to splurge, or if you have more self-restraint than cash and only want a little snack for around $50.
If you go there, tell me if I imagined the “Chez Gari” on the window. (Nobody calls it “Chez Gari,” but I could swear I saw the “chez” !)
Gari
370 Columbus Ave., New York, NY 10024
near 77th St.
212-362-4816